Thom Browne’s Fall/Winter 2025 RTW collection proves once again that he is a master of controlled chaos—an artist who effortlessly blends tradition with innovation. The collection, which debuted at Paris Fashion Week, continued Browne’s exploration of tailoring, subverting classic menswear silhouettes into something fantastical yet structured, with a heavy nod to surrealism and his signature dark humor.
The set itself was a theatrical spectacle, evoking a sense of an old-world ballroom crossed with a quirky dreamscape. Models glided through the space in exaggerated proportions, with sharp-shouldered suits and voluminous skirts that seemed to almost challenge the laws of gravity. The traditional grey flannel, one of Browne’s hallmarks, was juxtaposed with a play on textures—from glossy metallics to soft, plush mohair—and punctuated with graphic patterns and unconventional accessories, like oversized brooches and military-inspired boots.
What truly stood out, however, were Browne's reinterpretations of outerwear. His take on the classic trench coat was a revelation—tightly cinched at the waist with exaggerated proportions, creating a sort of modern-day, military chic. Likewise, his iconic pleated skirts were reimagined in bold, asymmetrical cuts that hinted at a deconstructed, almost avant-garde aesthetic while maintaining the brand’s essence of sartorial precision.
