UDGN : Meet the 16 Visionaries – A Celebration of African Fashion at LFW (REVIEW)

September 30, 2025 Ouch! Magazine

London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, UDGN (United Designers Group Network) brought together an electrifying showcase titled “Meet the 16 Visionaries,” where the creative brilliance of African fashion took center stage. This group show, featuring sixteen talented designers from across the continent, was a dynamic blend of tradition, innovation, and modern craftsmanship. The collection ranged from bold street wear-inspired aesthetics to opulent couture, each piece telling its own story while staying deeply rooted in the rich cultural tapestry of Africa.

A Tapestry of Creativity: Diversity in Design

The beauty of UDGN SS26 was how it managed to spotlight the diversity of African fashion through the lens of each visionary designer. The designers—ranging from established names to emerging talents—brought an array of vibrant perspectives, blending African heritage with contemporary influences in fresh and unexpected ways. From intricate beading and embroidery to sharp tailoring and avant-garde silhouettes, the show was a testament to how the future of fashion is being shaped by diverse voices from across the globe.

ZUBERE: A Fusion of Classic and Contemporary

Opening the show was Nancy Chizubere Johnson-Chidiadi, the visionary behind ZUBERE, whose collection was an exciting fusion of classic African fabrics and contemporary silhouettes. Bold, graphic prints and rich colors were juxtaposed with sleek, modern cuts. The standout pieces were her meticulously crafted jackets and trousers, often adorned with intricate beadwork and textured details that paid homage to traditional African artistry while maintaining a sleek, cosmopolitan edge. There was a sense of elegance in each piece that felt both timeless and forward-thinking, setting a strong tone for the show.

TWIN BY TARE ISAAC: The Power of Minimalism

Next, Tare Isaac of TWIN BY TARE ISAAC presented a collection marked by minimalist design and clean lines. His pieces focused on luxurious simplicity—tailored jackets, wide-legged trousers, and fluid dresses that emphasized the beauty of understated elegance. His use of muted colors like ochre, sand, and charcoal created a calm, yet powerful visual impact. The use of African prints in subtle accents within his garments made for an interesting contrast to the minimalist design, allowing his collection to resonate with both contemporary fashion lovers and traditional African culture enthusiasts.

THE IDEAL CRAFTSMAN: A Tribute to Craftsmanship

OLUTOBA MERCY ODETOMI of THE IDEAL CRAFTSMAN truly lived up to the brand’s name by showcasing masterful craftsmanship that celebrated African artistry. The collection featured beautifully constructed garments, including intricately woven kente dresses and embroidered tunics, that showcased the precision and skill of African artisans. Each piece was a work of art—whether it was the hand-dyed fabrics or the complex beadwork that adorned his gowns. The color palette was equally inspired by nature, with earthy tones and vibrant pops of orange and gold. It was clear that this collection was a tribute to the artistry that forms the backbone of African fashion.

ROBES AND BLINGS BY AKOKOMALI (RBA): Glamour and Grandeur

Olaitan Maria Olatoke of ROBES AND BLINGS BY AKOKOMALI (RBA) embraced glamour and grandeur with her show-stopping designs. The collection was full of dramatic ball gowns, oversized silhouettes, and extravagant embellishments that shimmered under the runway lights. Rich metallics, sequins, and Swarovski crystals were generously applied to the dresses, creating a sense of opulence and drama. There was a nod to African royal traditions, with regal fabrics and rich textures, but it was reinterpreted through the lens of contemporary couture.

PEM: Heritage Meets Futurism

Princess Mary Obeya of PEM brought a compelling mix of heritage and futurism. Her collection was an exploration of African textiles combined with futuristic, metallic elements. Structured coats, exaggerated shoulders, and flowing skirts were accentuated with bold geometric shapes and metallic fabrics. It was a collection that reimagined African fashion for the future, creating a stunning contrast between traditional motifs and forward-thinking designs. Her innovative approach to draping and fabric manipulation was evident in pieces that felt simultaneously grounded in history and ahead of their time.

OOMO AJADI: Afrocentric Streetwear

The designs by YUSUF KAREEM GBOLAHAN of OOMO AJADI infused the runway with youthful energy and street-savvy flair. His collection featured graphic tees, distressed denim, and oversized jackets adorned with Afrocentric prints and patterns. The fusion of urban streetwear and African cultural elements was both bold and accessible, appealing to a generation that is looking to make a statement without compromising on style or comfort. It was the perfect representation of the fusion of global and local influences.

OBIREEN: Subtle Luxury and Elegance

Salami Oluwaseun of OBIREEN wowed the audience with a collection that balanced subtle luxury with elegance. His use of smooth, flowing fabrics like silk and satin, combined with understated, modern cuts, resulted in a sophisticated lineup of chic eveningwear and tailored separates. OBIREEN's pieces were sleek and refined, making a statement with their simplicity and exquisite craftsmanship.

MOTUNRAYO: Modern African Femininity

MOTUNRANYO YETUNDE AJAYI brought modern African femininity to the forefront with a collection that celebrated the beauty of curves and bold silhouettes. Her body-conscious dresses, adorned with dramatic ruffles, feathers, and metallic accents, felt both regal and modern. The color palette was a delightful mix of pastels and bold jewel tones, creating an aura of fresh, youthful luxury that still honored African heritage through intricate beadwork and embroidery.

MIDETUSH: Power Suits with African Flare

OLUTOBA MERCY ODETOMI of MIDETUSH introduced a collection that was nothing short of powerful—tailored suits, jumpsuits, and structured dresses with African prints woven into the fabrics. His mastery of tailoring was evident in every piece, but it was his ability to blend sharp, modern lines with African-inspired patterns that truly set his collection apart. The incorporation of traditional kente and ankara fabrics within a contemporary power-suit silhouette resonated with those seeking a fusion of classic professionalism and cultural pride.

LEKAN AARE: African Haute Couture

LEKAN TAOFEEK FOLARIN brought haute couture to the runway with his refined and luxurious creations. His collection, which included floor-length gowns, hand-embroidered details, and intricately layered fabrics, exuded sophistication. The elegant use of African wax prints, paired with delicate silk and velvet fabrics, gave each piece a modern twist while remaining rooted in tradition.

JERMAINE BLEU: Street Meets Elegance

Jason Jermaine Asiedu of JERMAINE BLEU offered a collection that blended streetwear with high fashion. His oversized bomber jackets, luxe tracksuits, and sneakers were contrasted with tailored trousers and satin skirts, creating a seamless fusion of relaxed elegance. The use of African-inspired prints in unexpected places—like the lining of a leather jacket or the trim of a bomber—added a personal touch that kept the collection fresh and engaging.

ITELE: The Future of Afrocentric Fashion

Seyi Agboola of ITELE redefined the future of Afrocentric fashion with a show that was part avant-garde and part ready-to-wear. His collection included sculptural, voluminous dresses, futuristic metallic coats, and highly structured trousers. The integration of African motifs into modern, experimental designs was striking, and the attention to detail in his embroidery and fabric manipulation set him apart as one of the standout designers of the show.

BOLA: Eclectic Luxury

Omobolanle Sulleman of BOLA brought eclectic luxury to the runway. Her collection featured a mix of structured blazers, flared pants, and daring cut-outs, all made from opulent fabrics like satin and velvet. Bold prints, including hand-painted florals and geometric designs, were paired with sleek, minimalist accessories, making each piece feel both cutting-edge and luxurious.

AYAH: Couture with a Twist

AYAH EBIMOBOWEI DAUKORU of AYAH brought high-fashion drama to the runway with his couture-inspired collection. Beautifully tailored suits, embellished dresses, and striking coats featured unique twists, like asymmetrical hems and unexpected fabric combinations. His designs were a celebration of African culture through a global lens, blending traditional elements with modern construction techniques to create truly standout pieces.

ANKU: Contemporary African Heritage

Closing the show, Kelvin Vincent of ANKU showcased his collection that celebrated African heritage through the lens of contemporary fashion. Rich colors, luxurious fabrics, and heritage prints were paired with bold, modern cuts. His use of hand-embroidered detailing on modern outerwear and formal wear created a sense of timeless luxury that felt both contemporary and deeply connected to African traditions.

The UDGN SS26 LFW SHOW: Meet the 16 Visionaries proved that African fashion is not just a trend—it’s a force to be reckoned with on the global stage. Each designer brought something unique to the runway, creating a truly multi-faceted showcase that was both a celebration of African culture and a glimpse into the future of global fashion. The level of craftsmanship, creativity, and innovation displayed was nothing short of spectacular, and this show was undoubtedly one of the highlights of London Fashion Week 2026.

Photography Credit : Maja Smiejkowska