Matteo Tamburini pares luxury back to its most seductive essentials, letting supple leather, fluid tailoring and unmistakable Italian ease take center stage.
Luxury does not always arrive with a flashbulb moment. Sometimes it slips quietly onto the runway in the form of impossibly soft leather, an oversized jacket falling perfectly from the shoulder, or a silhouette that looks as though it has never known discomfort.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Tod’s makes a virtue of precisely that kind of understatement.
Under Matteo Tamburini, the house continues to explore the space between impeccable craftsmanship and effortless dressing. This season, the proposition feels particularly clear: take the familiar ingredients of Italian luxury — leather, tailoring, sensual materials and exceptional accessories — and loosen them until they acquire a new kind of freedom.
The effect is less about making an entrance than making an impression.
The new softness of leather
Leather has always been part of Tod’s vocabulary, but this season it feels almost liberated from its traditional associations with structure and weight. The Pashmy leather development introduces an extraordinarily soft, lightweight dimension, allowing the material to fall, fold and move with a fluidity more commonly associated with fabric.
That change in attitude is crucial.
Rather than treating leather as armor, Tamburini treats it as something intimate. Jackets appear softer. Pieces skim rather than cling. Surfaces catch the light subtly as the garments move, giving even familiar silhouettes a sensual quality.
It is craftsmanship designed to be felt.
Tailoring without the stiffness
Tamburini's tailoring follows the same philosophy. The sharpness is still there, but the rigidity has been taken away.
Jackets sit generously across the body. Coats have an elongated, relaxed quality. Traditional tailoring codes are softened through proportion, creating silhouettes that feel polished without appearing overly constructed.
There is something distinctly Italian about the attitude: sophisticated, but never formal for formality's sake.
The clothes suggest a woman who understands tailoring but has no interest in being trapped inside it.
A wardrobe with a life beyond the runway
What makes the collection particularly compelling is the sense that these clothes are intended to escape the runway.
The pieces do not depend on novelty alone. Instead, they invite repetition — a jacket worn over and over, a leather piece becoming softer with time, an accessory acquiring personality through use.
This gives the collection an appealing sense of permanence.
Tod’s has never needed to rely on excessive branding to communicate its position, and Tamburini preserves that restraint. The luxury is embedded in construction and material rather than announced across the surface.
It is a quieter kind of seduction.
The beauty of restraint
There is discipline behind the collection's apparent simplicity. When embellishment is reduced, every proportion matters. The shoulder, the length of a coat, the way leather folds at the waist, the relationship between a relaxed jacket and a fluid silhouette — these become the details that hold the collection together.
